I live east of you near Johnstown CO. I built a new home three years ago and used DryVit with scratch coat (cement) and not the insulating foam boards (EIFS). Based on my experiences:
A. When I selected the stucco contractor, I asked each of them whether to use scratch coat or foam if it was their home. In every case, they each said "scratch coat" with the understanding that it would have little hairline cracks after a year or so. (The fact is that the house will shrink/settle, and since concrete and DryVit are rigid materials they will only flex to a certain degree and then will crack as the house expands and contracts with temperature). Contractors like stucco on insulating foam because it requires significantly less labor and they can bid a lower price.
B. The reason I did not go with the foam boards with DryVit over it is that (a) I have a friend who sells high end $2.5+ milion homes, who said the corporate relo services will not approve a house with insulating foam (EIFS), and (b) a second friend with a $1.5 million dollar home had a buyer who couldn't get mortgage approval because of the stucco/insulating foam finish (another corporate relo)--so they pulled all of the stucco/foam and refinished using scratch coat and the sale was approved--$30,000 to remove and refinish).
The issue with EIFS is the installation process--the DryVit is only a topical coating. Most contractors just slap up the foam and stucco it. The problem is that the wall needs to drain any moisture captured between the insulating foam board and the interior wall--remembering that most houses are insulated with fibreglass batts that have a waterproof membrane facing the interior. This was a significant issue in the deep south (high humidity) that caused a lot of problems and the lawsuits with EIFS and DryVit. I don't know if it is less of an issue in CO due to our much lower humidity year round.
(This is similar to the issue Marvin windows had a few years back, when research showed the windows were not installed or sealed properly. It's easier to sue a big company than a contractor. BTW, I have Marvin Integrity windows, also.)
They installed the stucco and DryVit as follows:
A. Felt paper over the plywood siding, installed in a layered (cascade) fashion (overlapping from bottom-up)
B. Hardware mesh over the felt paper
C. Walls cemented
D. Foam was used to trim the windows and other decorative accents
E. Mesh installed over the decorative foam accents
F. DryVit installed
Three years later:
A. No leaks that we are aware of, or any other issues with the stucco. Small hairline cracks on smaller walls, with more hairline cracks (per 5' X 5' square) on the north wall measuring about 30' X 25'. (this wall get virtually all of the wind/snow/rain). It only has two windows. Most of the other walls have windows/doors, so they appear to be stiffer than the one large wall. No water issues anywhere--as we have an unfinished basement where we would be likely to see any problems.
B. Only one significant crack about 1/16" wide and two feet long on the corner of one window. I fixed this myself by using some of the leftover DryVit from the initial installation using a very stiff scrubbing brush to paint the DryVit on the crack. Did the same with some of the other hairline cracks near the entry areas--more for cosmetic reasons as you could not see them unless you stood within 2 feet of the wall.
C. Other than that the house is very tight, very quiet, and we seldom hear the wind--I contibute this to the high quality windows/doors, the 2X6 construction and the stucco finish. We do not have any drafts, nor air infiltration that is noticeable.
I clean the stucco of cobwebs, bugs and and dirt with a leaf blower--first blowing, and then reverse to vacuum for tougher spots. I don't spray the house with water (just a bad idea from my perspective). I spot wash any bird droppings or other crud, with a broom and bucket of ammonia and water--at the same time I clean the windows..
Would I use DryVit again. Yes. I think it's a good product.