You have gotten a lot of solicitations, referrals, and suggestions from poster so I'll not suggest a specific bank or LO.
One thing you need to be able to do is to compare apples to apples.
The best rate may the worst deal. How could that be, you ask. - (Or it could be the best deal)
1. What are the closing costs involved with just the loans. Remember Title insurance, and transfer tax are going to be pretty much the same across all lenders as they have nothing to do with charging or earning those fees, but they still have to estimate them to you. - So just loan fees okay - compare them.
2. Prepayment penalty or no ? Don't assume that it is neccesarily a bad thing. If you are 95 tp 99% sure that you will not need to sell or refinance in the next three years, a prepayment penalty may allow you tosave on some upfront loan fees.
3. Length of fixed period , As a rule the longer the fixed period, the higher the rate, 30 year fixed are usually the highest rates. If you can plan ahead with some certainty, you may be better off with a ten year a five year, or even a three year fixed period. . .. If the rate is sufficiently lower for the shorter periods to make a serious difference.
4. Fully amortized, interest only, and "pay option". -- Rates are slightly better for amortized than they are for interest only. Rates are often worse for some of the "pay option" type loans, which have the negative amortization option.
5. Down Payment 20% is good, You may receive a slightly lower rate on a Jumbo if you can swing 25% down.
6. Loan size: some programs are bracketed, say $417-750 is at the best possible rate and $750K -1MM is a tiny bit worse. I liked Aaron's caution about the possible difference between a $999,999 loan and a 1MM loan requiring a review appraiser and its fee.