Inna,

When it comes to your health, you want to do your research. One thing that we found of interest, was the difference between Canadian laws and US Laws in this area. The Canadian law suggests a much higher reading before mitigation is needed.

Also, where was the reading taken? It is my understanding that most inspectors will place the test equipment in the lowest level that is being lived in. If you have an unfinished basement, as the seller, you would not want the test equipment placed there.

Hope this is helpful to you.

Many Blessings,

Jim

The seller also has the option of having a 2nd test done to determine if the value is still above 4.0. If it below 4.0, what do you do? Have a 3rd test as the tie breaker and go from there or do the 90 day test. Or just ask the seller to install a radon system and this will resolve the problem and you will actually be safer and have peace of mind knowing that the odorless, colorless gas is being drawn out of you home 24/7. It should have no effect on the resale value of the home and can actually be a selling point. It should not stop you from purchasing this house.

I will suggest that you go to http://WWW.epa.gov and read up on RADON and its effects. You must educate yourself on this subject. Sorry for the short answer. There is a lot of good info on the EPA WEB SITE.

With an approved Radon Mitigation system installed you will be guaranteed that the Radon levels will be below the 4.0 level that the EPA recommends for mitigation. As with most "defects' discovered during a home inspection this expense, typically under $1,000, should be requested of the Seller.

As for future resale it should have no effect on value as there are many homes in Notheast Ohio with Radon Mitigation Systems in place. In fact, the Hudson area is supposed to have a higher than average number of homes with systems already installed. There is some discussion that you may also have a slightly lower level of humidity in your basement because the process draws the air from the subsoil below the basement floor and blows it out of the house before it has a chance to enter and stay in the basement. The systems are almost silent.

If you can get the other party to agree, I often recommended that the parties conduct a 90 day test to determine the true average level. The EPA standard of 4.0 was developed based on test of at least 90 days. The procedure would be to have an estimate of the cost of the mitigation system held in escrow until the 90 days test is completed. You can find a test kit on line at http://www.AirChek.com or http://www.Radon.com, I believe. They have a variety of test devices but you want the on that cost about $25-$30 and is refrred to as a long term device. You do not have to hire someone to do this.

Every time I have had this 90 day test done the results came back below the 4.0 level. The 2 day test results had been as high as an average in the 8.0+ range. No matter what, the mitigation system will solve the problem and the system will be a non-issue in the future.

Inna,
First, congratulations on the purchase of your home. Second, if you mitigate the radon with a certified installer--usually around a $1,500 solution that the buyer typically asks the Seller to cover, you should have no problem re-selling the home. After all, every home has some level of Radon and the peace of mind of knowing there is an abatement system in place is a Selling Point, not a detraction.
Homes that have been vacant and shut up, without the drafts of opening and closing doors, tend to have higher levels. It's only natural. New homes are often built to avoid radon levels that could become harmful.
Why is 4 pCi/L the magic number? Because that is where the EPA says it's a good point to fix the home. Understand, however, that it is difficult to get your Radon level below 2 pCi/L and that a reading of 4 pCi/L means that you have the same chances of getting cancer in this home from Radon as dying in a car crash--according to the EPA.
Go here, read this and become better informed so that you can make good choices about what to do next: http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html#overview