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Dan Shapiro's Blog

By Dan Shapiro | Agent in Brooklyn, NY

Bice

Bice Ristorante
4 East 54 Streets
New York, NY
 
212 688 1999
 
Bice New York, is part of a chain of restaurants, but this is not your fathers McDonald’s
 
There are several Bice restaurants around the world we were at the Manhattan branch. The first thing you notice that the décor is lively but dignified, in some ways similar to Kellari. The next thing to notice is that even though this is not an inexpensive restaurant (dinner can easily be $ 100/person) there are children at the table, albeit well dressed and at there best behavior. Indeed three generational tables are not uncommon.
 
The most important thing about any restaurant is the food and Bice truly shines.
A classic beet and spinach salad is upgraded by using goat cheese rather than the traditional blue cheese, add slivered baby white and green beans and you know you are at someplace special.
 
Lobster bisque separates the cooks from the chefs. Most cooks add corn starch to try to thicken the broth the result is usually clumpy or cloying. If you try to reheat the bisque the cream will scald and the bisque will often smell and taste burnt. Bice’s bisque was hot, tangy with tomato, but smooth with cream. The Lobster medallions on top were proof of the bisque pedigree.
 
There are many good dishes at Bice try the Veal Scaloppini. Normally this is made with lemon slices or juice and the result is a sour taste. But at Bice preserved lemon is used gone is the sour taste replaced by a wonderful lemon bouquet and taste.
 

Comments

By Wilem Armstrong,  Fri Jul 16 2010, 20:24
Interesting, I agree with your assessment.

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