Sealing up air leaks around your home is one of the most cost effective ways to maximize energy efficiency. Regardless of how good your house is insulated, if there are cracks and holes, the air you just paid for to heat or cool will swiftly be wasted. But air sealing is easy and reasonably inexpensive as long as you know what areas to take a look at. In this article we primarily look at the use of caulk to make quick repairs to leaky areas. Best of all, you do not need to be an expert craftsman to be able to do this. One note of caution though that this is not the ideal afternoon activity to do with your children. Caulk can be quite sticky and messy and can quickly ruin some nice clothes. Leave the painting and garden activities for your kids.
As the seasons and the weather changes, cracks and gaps will open and close allowing unwanted air to seep in, conditioned air to seep out and moisture to leak into the home. This can result in a number of problems such as mould, breezes, and heat loss in the winter weather or gain in the the hot months. This expansion and contraction can also lead to other more cosmetic problems such as cracking paint or trim slighly moving.
Leaks can be closed with caulk, spray foam or even just weather stripping depending on the problem area. A good rule of thumb is to use caulk for cracks smaller than 1/4-inch, and foam for larger cracks and gaps, though each condition may vary. With the foam there are two popular ones at the your hardware store in blue and red cans. One expands much more than the other. Be careful to not use the one that expands more in tight spaces as it can literally push apart things. So, for windows and door trim, unless the gaps are huge, it generally best to go with the less expansive one. We'd recommend checking these areas in your home:
On the outside of your home windows and doors are pretty much always a problem child. Insulate around the frame with the low expanding foam insulation. You can also caulk at the frame and drywall/trim intersection. For your windows you may consider adding storm windows to single pane units as this will help with the windows sustaining temperature whether it be cold or hot. Another key area are wall penetrations such as pipes, vents, exhausts, air intakes, etc. You are going to want to caulk around the perimeter of all exterior wall penetrations. Finally, look at your trim as it can often be inproperly installed. Caulk around the perimeter of trim, and trim/siding intersections.
As we shift into the inside of your home we'll start with your windows and doors just as we did with the outside work. Windows and doors will need to be caulked at the frame and drywall/trim intersection. For your doors, weather stripping can make a large difference around all sides of the door trim. For your windows the usual suspect is the seal at the bottom of the window and the window frame. Here you can install weather stripping if needed. A common missed area is your attic access point if it is on the interior of your living areas. This is an easy area to add insulation and/or gaskets/weather stripping.
Moving into your bathroom we'll deal with your tubs and showers. Caulk at shower/tub and wall intersection and around the plumbing fixture border. Be certain to look at the pipes and ductwork for your toilets and sinks. Caulk the wall penetrations and wrap hot or cold water pipes with insulation which is pretty easy to do. Do not forget to tape all your duct joints and seams. You may need to go under your house if you have a crawl space for the pipes.
For the other common areas of the home do not forget your lights, outlets, light switches and your fireplace if you have one. For your outlets and switches you can install a very simple gasket that fits behind the plate and you can fill in the area behind the plate and around your electrical plate with low-expanding foam. For the lights you can caulk around the trim. If possible you should install light fixtures or housings that are labeled as airtight fixtures. Finally, your fireplace is generally best tackled by sealing the chimney when it is not being used. You can do this with your damper being set to closed or, you can install an inflatable chimney balloon blocker. You may want to consider installing gasketed doors to the fireplace opening.
We briefly touched on the basements and crawlspaces while we were wrapping the hot and cold water pipes. While you're under there, caulk or foam at the foundation wall & rim joist intersection and seal any cracks or joints in the foundation walls.
Most older homes will not have the issues of being too airtight, as there is always bound to be enough cracks and air leaks to keep a healthy level of fresh air circulation. If you are concerned with this issue, or are building a new tight home, you can install outside air intakes to be connected to your HVAC to bring in a steady exchange of new and stale air.
If you're unsure about where you need sealing, you can try the DIY method of inspecting your house with a lit incense stick — first turn off your HVAC and any running fans and close all windows and doors, then take the lit stick near any suspect leak, if the incense smoke is sucked in or taken out then you've confirmed your leak. Also, if you see any unclean spots on attic insulation, or dirt around any perimeter wall, door or window, then you most likely have a leak. An even better confirmation would be to get an energy audit, an auditor/inspector can do a variety of tests and even use infrared cameras to identify leaks, moisture and air infiltration and not enough insulation. In some areas of the country it is common for the electric providers to this audit free of charge. However, an independent audit professional will generally be more experienced and be able to recommend local resources or companies to address the individual problem areas.
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